Yoga Yowie Needs His Sleep


The Yoga Cat is trying to get some shut-eye tonite, and people keep waking him up.  He’s all camped out on his down comforter.  Well, at least he thinks it’s his . . .  Possibly he’s paranoid I’ll kick him off it.




muscle cat



New things to enjoy

Grey cat Inquiring Minds


I recently decided to start posting some of my photography on DeviantArt website. The reason being they were just sitting on a hard drive not making themselves useful at all. Here’s what I’ve posted there so far at DeviantArt at      Also on DeviantArt you can have them printed as all kinds of things such as:


Fine Art Prints – Fine Art Canvas Prints – Framed Fine Art Paper Prints – Framed Canvas Prints – Wrapped Canvas Prints – Photographic Prints – Greeting Cards – Mouse Pads – Ceramic Coffee Mugs – Coasters – Fridge Magnets – Postcards – Calendars

Photo dog statue with sunglasses          Photo poolside candles

Yowie Yoga Cat HiYa!Gee golly that sounded great. I knew my little printer wouldn’t keep up with all that, not to mention the time involved doing it myself. And I’m sure not set up to print on cups, magnets, coasters, and such.  I’ll have to explore a different place for T-Shirts.  They don’t do that there.  NOTE: I have only just started posting my photography, but next month will start posting my ART there too.  (possibly, see my post here on maybe why not)

Photo Pink Rose    photo mauve purple rose    

So if you just want to see what all else I post on there, go on over to DeviantArt to MY page, and you can look through all of them

Where has Yowie Yoga Cat BEEN?

I know you all wonder how Yowie Yoga Cat has been doing with his CAREER.  Actually he’s been doing a lot of photo shoots lately.


I Was Here All The Time


Yowie Yoga Cat Parking


I Are Serious Cat


But Sometimes Shy and Un-Imposing . . .


Yowie Yoga Cat with his new fashion hat


Yowie Yoga Cat is a sexy thinking guy


Yowie Yoga Cat ends his day in the bath

HOWEVER . . . Nowdays, when he isn’t posing for a photo shoot, he hangs out with BUBBA his best friend.


BUBBA THE HAMSTER (c) 2017 G.Schultz

BUBBA, Yowie’s friend (c) 2017

And he also hangs out with CHICKME, his maybe sometime girlfriend

Chicken perching

CHICKME (c) 2017



Hand painted figurines 3

Jewelant is painting more ceramics before Christmas 2014.

hand painted baby reindeer

Rudolph’s brother

Paypal buy now buttonSmall brown reindeer, green harness, Hand painted ceramic 1  4” long x 4”tall x 2”wide  #CER 40  $5.00

ceramic woven basket with flowers

Fresh for your table

Paypal buy now buttonLarge Pink woven basket with flowers inside, handpainted ceramic.  #CER 19  $16.00

hand painted Ceramic victorian doll

For doll collectors, or just yourself

Paypal buy now buttonFrilly lady doll with pink dress, lace, and gold necklace. Handpainted very tall about 16”  #CER 20  $28.00

hand painted wedding swan

You can put things inside of this swan such as candy or tiny favors

Paypal buy now buttonSwan container with sparkling flowers on neck, Handpainted ceramic  12”long x 8 1/4”tall x 6”wide  #CER 25  $24.00

hand painted ceramic elephant

Baby loves this elephant

Paypal buy now buttonStuffed elephant, Handpainted ceramic 8”long x 6 1/2”wide x 6 3/4”tall.  #CER 08  $24.00

hand painted ceramic container with lid

puffy basket with ruffled lid

Paypal buy now buttonGreen and white and sparkled sewing basket or container with quilting on top and ruffle edged lid, Hand painted ceramic  9”long x 6 1/2”wide x 4”tall  #CER 50  $22.00

large hand painted ceramic teddy bear

A large teddy for the baby room

Paypal buy now buttonLarge brown Stuffed bear, Hand painted ceramic  8 1/2”tall x 10 1/2”wide x 6 1/2”deep.  #CER 43  $22.00

home sweet home wall plaque

Home Sweet Home

Paypal buy now buttonHome Sweet Home ceramic wall hanging with bluebirds in a nest on front, Handpainted ceramic.  About 12” tall.  #CER 21  #12.00

Ceramic cherubs Christmas decoration

For your Christmas tree

Paypal buy now buttonCherub face, two girls, for Xmas decoration, Hand painted ceramic.  Measures about 2 ½” wide. #CER 69  $5.00


One renegade chicken

Photo chickens head

Renegade chicken. She’s SO idependent

I had recently started letting my chickens out of their pen to roam the yard.  I have a privacy fence, and after blocking the undersides of all the gates, not including hawks,  it was a pretty safe place for them to roam if I didn’t let the dog out of his pen.

So I let them out and watched to see where they hung out.  For the most part they stayed at the back of the property which is where thiere pen and nests are at.  They scratched everywhere, the compost pile was a favorite, as was under the flatbed and trailers in the backyard.  I introduced them to the winter garden which had nothing in it they could destroy.

They had a whole lotta chicken fun.  And I cut down on the feed bill quite a lot.  They got bugs, and grass, and seeds to eat all day long.  They got to roll in the dirt, flap their wings, run a good distance too.  But when I’d come out to take a head count, (I’ve got six hens), there was always one not with the flock that I would have to search for.

Today I went out to check on them and that renegade chicken was at it again, only this time I couldn’t seem to get her to come when I called, even though five of the hens were eating chopped apples and leftover spaghetti as a treat.  I came back out later, I heard what I thought was something from under one of the junk cars in the yard.  Worried that maybe a racoon or possum had started living in a trunk, I checked.

Nope . . . no chicken.   And I’m worried about her because she isn’t staying where I can find her.

I went around and looked under all the vehicles, the trailers, anywhere one might find a chicken hiding.  And low and behold, under the BACK side of a trailer, was this very silent chicken.  She wasn’t unhappy, or hurt.  She wasn’t laying an egg.  What she had done was to scratch out a hole in the dirt under the trailer and hunker her body into it.  She didn’t seem to be nesting.

What she was doing was to just plain take a spa dirt bath. She was happily contented to just wiggle around in the cold dirt and bathe in it.  I mean she was in total chicken heaven too.  Her eyes were glazed with this enjoyment I’ve not seen anywhere so intense.

And she seems to just be that type of personality, a chicken that is a renegade, independent “doesn’t need the flock” kind of gal.  But I think I need to mark her with a scarlet “R”.

Chickens don’t like unfamiliar things


I don’t LIKE new stuff

I had some white breadcrumbs that I put in the blender to take out to them, and went out to the chicken pen to give them to the hens. And I found something out quite by accident about my girls (the chickens).

I bent down to sprinkle some on the ground as I do every day with thiere regular crumbles.

They backed up.

I put some in my hand because they will eat directly from my hand with gusto.

They backed up again, looking upset. “Hey! that’s not food!”. They just did not TRUST those bread crumbs.

I finally got them to eat some by pecking with my finger at it like I always do.  The bread crumbs are lighter color than their crumbles.  But it taught me something about the discerning eye of a chicken.

And possibly the discerning eye of most people.  I know people that act that way about a new idea, a new food, a new thing they didn’t have experience with.  I just had to show them that it was good for them.

The Scaredy Cat beekeeper?


After I recently got stung to pieces trying to capture a swarm in the wrong manner, all kinds of things went through my pea brain.  Kind of like a person that falls off or gets bucked off a horse, I was reluctant to do my normal bee routine. I was having trouble wanting to get back out there and tend to the remaining bees that I did have. Although I know that with my suit and gloves on, the chances of getting stung again were not really very likely.  And I always take great pains not to crush anyone.

But I had never in 5 years of owning bees gotten to really enjoying them.  I did not enjoy the fact that they really didn’t like my presence, and could act really hateful at the wrong moves.  Adding to the fact was that I had changed my bees from Russians, to two different other breeds.  One of these breeds was Italians, which did not seem to be very touchy.  The other breed was a mutt breed called “survivor bees” who seemed calm, but with no warning would explode into a rage.  I had never had any bees that temperamental.

My Russians would always head butt me before actually stinging, so I had some kind of warning.  But they were very swarmy, so I changed types last year.

Anyway, after the attack I was leery of bees, not terrified, but reluctant.  I knew I needed to tend to them, but I found all and any kind of excuse to put it off.  However, I did consider the idea at the last that aside from that reluctance, those survivor bees did seem to be a tad screwy.  And since I didn’t actually see them leave the hive in a swarm, I entertained the idea that possibly these were not my bees, but a feral bunch from somewhere else.  OR “Africanized bees”?????


The culprits. Bee guarding entrance to hive.

But none of that explained that one hive in the back that was super touchy.

I thought possibly if I requeened all the screwy hives . . . And I also thought about selling all the darned bees, because what good is it having them if you don’t maintain them?  I didn’t mind having a few hives (2 or three), but six was a maintenance thing if you didn’t really love it.

Hey, here I am posting umpteen articles on how to take care of bees, and I didn’t even feel comfortable around them enough to want to keep them any more.  I opologize profusely.  But it is the trooooooooth.  I can stand sitting in a chair in front of the hive without fear at all.  But I put on that bee suit, and I know the bees will like me up until the point that I remove some frames.  Then they just lose it.  I keep going, but they are pissed and I do not enjoy them being pissed at me.  I guess I just want my animals to like me because I take so much care taking care of them.


Finger sting

It’s not as if I’m terrified, or in fear of my life or anything.  I know that it isn’t personal. I know the bees don’t hate me personally, or even all people personally.


My eye . . . swollen up

I think I need a beekeeper shrink . . .  But now for my other reaction

I got up the morning after writing the above article.  I was not even awake, with bleary eyes, cricked neck, and another thought coming into my not yet awake mind.  Here I am spending my hard earned money on beehives, frames, beetle traps, time out of my life, etc.  So I resolved to look at this in the opposite way for once.

    • They cost me over $100 each. x6 = $600
    • Their hives cost about $150 each. x6 = $900
    • The beetle traps cost at least half that each. x6 = $300
    • The extra supers cost a certain amount.
    • Extra excluders cost a certain amount.
    • Powdered sugar for shaking, and miscellaneous equipment probably cost at least $100
    • A SMALL spinner for spinning frames of honey cost $120.
    • Maintenance averages 2 weeks a year. That equals 5-6 months out of my life. Which is equal to a large vacation.
    • I worry over the parasites that attack them.
    • I have to go out in the cold and make sure they don’t freeze to death or starve.
    • I have to go out in a hot bee suit and sweat over them while they try to kill me.
    • Bee stings make me itch and dig my skin off for at least a week.

And the bad possiblities . . .

    • They are in MY backyard.
    • They are bought and paid for by me.
    • They are taken care of with time out of my valuable life.
    • I only ask for PART of their food, which is extra they won’t use.
    • They live at my discretion.
    • The beetles would get them if I didn’t do something about it each year.
    • They could have gone to someone that bangs on their hive.
    • They could have gone to someone that likes to smash bees.
    • They could have gone to someone that puts poison in their hives.
    • They would just act like bees and die a like a bee if I didn’t take care of them.

So, who cares if the bees actually LIKE me?

The perks used to be getting to watch bees and observe their many ups and downs.  And HONEY, the main thing that is not replaceable by getting it at the grocery store in the same manner.  The honey is storable for very long periods of time, tastes great, make great gifts and can be sold.  You can actually stockpile it, put it in your coffee, tea, cook with it, etc.

Well, they are insects.  And in their little pea brains I probably should not expect any more than that.  And I’m sure I wouldn’t get a heck of a lot of money if I sold them.  And that would also mean having some inspector running around my yard telling me what I already knew in the first place, which is that I have a few small hive beetles. Yeek.

So, I’m back to square one.  I need to get out there today and fix those hives so they’ll survive some more and see if they have any extra honey after swarming all over the place.  Anyone have one of these epiphanies?

How to clip a chickens wings (with links)

Baby Chicken perching

NO, not MY wings! You seriously wouldn’t clip MY wings!

I will be soon having to clip the wings to prevent flying off to escape, so here are some links for you most with diagrams.  I don’t think you do it on a chicken as young as the one in the picture.  And you could get away without it if your pen had a top on it and they couldn’t escape.  In any case, you only clip one wing . . .


If anyone has a blog with the instructions, and you let me know, or I find you, I’ll put a link to your blog on this page.



Changed my Gravatar (a little)

Here’s the old one, just so ya can compare

Jewelant first gravatar

Jewelant first gravatar

Here’s the new Gravatar. I want to thank Andrew Zhebrakov of for letting me use the Maneki Neko icon to use in my header.  He designed the cat, and I just incorporated it into my design.  He is really very good at what he does.

Jewelant second Gravatar

Jewelant second Gravatar

Let me know which one you like the best


Hive Beetle update April 2014

One of my readers wrote to me asking advice (I added a few sentences later):

I just read your blog about hive beetle. We had them for the first time last summer. Noticed it when we found a huge pile of bees on the ground. Bees had been in that hive since spring. When we opened up the hive, we discovered a large amount of hive beetles. No other hive was disturbed. We have four hives. I installed another swarm a few weeks ago and they absconded. Was thinking about making the cd case trap. We cleaned out the box, burned the inside, and installed another swarm in the same box. Less than a week later, we had dead bees again all over the ground. No beetles, though. It is strange how this has happened, but will be destroying that box, but first will douse it with 50/50 bleach and water. No other signs of any disease or anything. You mentioned using roach bait, I have some of the powdered bait, would you suggest I sprinkle it on the ground near the back of the hives? Also, what kind of nematodes should I purchase? ~ Gloria

Dead bees after hive beetle infestation

Dead bees after hive beetle infestation

I know the feeling. You do all that work and there they are, a big mess.  How are your other hives doing?  Are they free of problems? In my case, after all of what I did to get rid of beetles I decided several things:

  • That I couldn’t tell if the nematodes did anything.  And they are really expensive.  So I decided not to get them a second year.  Maybe the original ones are still alive in the soil and working.  Who knows?

  • The beetle traps with poison in them didn’t catch anything at all.  I don’t know why, but other people say the opposite.  They catch beetles for them.  I caught none.

  • I forgot to add something.  POWDERED SUGAR SHAKE!  You put powdered sugar in a flour sifter or something similar, and shake this all over your bees and inner parts.  It riles the bees up irritatingly, they attack whatever is in there.  And it makes things slippery so that mites and whatever falls into your oil trap.  Do this regularly, maybe once a month during fine weather.  It’s non toxic, and the bees will eat the leftovers.
  • OOPS! forgot something else my husband reminded me of.  We have our hive up on a deck up off the ground.  And several times a year we wrap the legs in rags and soak that in used transmission fluid and kerosene half and half.  It keep ants and all kinds of things from crawling up to the hives.  Additionally, my deck legs are sitting on concrete blocks for leveling.  I douse these with oil too.
  • Additionally, and this is very important. There must be enough bees in the hive to cover all of the frames, and chase the beetles and harass them.

Bees will corner beetles and keep them in corners and make it difficult for them to breed.  They even resort to using propolis to wall them in. But if there is too much space, such as adding a super prematurely, and too little bees to cover the space, the beetles will be able to evade persecution, running in all directions and hiding in the cracks.  This gives them ample time to lay eggs and multiply.

I think, if your other hives were not overcome with beetles they had a big enough population to defend and corral the beetles that they did get.  It’s possible that your failed hive was the opposite, and even that beetles were not the original problem, but what weakened them enough to make them overcome with the beetles.  So check for any other problems.

NOTE:  My hives only had a few beetles one summer.  I left for a week long vacation, after putting extra supers on all the hives hoping to prevent a swarming.  When I came home the beetles had taken over all the hives.  CAUSE:  I gave them room to escape by putting the supers on too soon.

I also think that the powdered sugar shake, combined with the Freeman Beetle trap, and sucking the beetles up regularly with a low powered vacuum can keep the population down to manageable levels.

The Freeman oil Beetle Trap is different from other oil traps, in that it doesn’t have ledges at the bottom for varmints to hide and lay eggs in.  Which leads me to my other article about sealing cracks in the hive.  See my article on how I sealed the cracks permanently HERE

Honey Bee Deck

Bee deck 2010 before beetle invasion

Honey bee deck leg

Leg of Bee Deck where you wrap the legs

Probably using a combination of controls is what helped my beetle thing.  But I think the sweeper was best.  I never completely got rid of every single beetle, as they came back the next spring. (They overwinter in the hive, and hatch normally in the dirt outside the hive if not actively reproducing inside the hive)  So the bees keep them warm for the winter.  How convenient.  What I did was to cut the population down to less destructive levels.

The way I used the sweeper was that whenever I opened the top lid of the hive to check or mess with the bees, I flipped it over quickly and vacuumed any beetles running around as quick as I could, dodging bees all the while (it WILL suck up bees too).  Then I switched to the inside top of the hive and chased any beetles I saw running on the top board and/or up over the sides of the outside of the hive.

I made this a regular thing every two days while the beetles were thick, and then every week, and then every two weeks.  Until I only saw a few.  It really cut down the beetles, all of which are breeders that you want to kill.  Now I only regularly see 4 to 5 beetles when I open the top cover.

Make no mistake, these four could become many upon many if left unchecked by controls.

I’m working on some kind of front of the hive entrance trap, because when beetles come back, they just fly to the front entrance of the hive and crawl right in!  I’ve actually watched them DO this, and once inside they make a mess.  And that mess is what makes your bees leave.  They just give up in disgust because their honey is rotten, their babies are eaten, the maggots are everywhere, and stinky slime is all over the place.  It’s a science fiction, but NOT fiction horror movie made for bees.

Also, although I’m no expert, from reading what you said, I wouldn’t sprinkle the roach bait on the ground, because bees can be scavengers in the spring, and they might pick it up and bring it back to the hive.  I didn’t use powdered roach bait.  They (other people) recommend the roach bait that comes in a syringe in a past form, and you put it in a CD case when you use it.  Like I said, it didn’t work or catch anything where I was at.  The CD case makes sure the bees can’t get it on their feetsies.  Also, with the CD case, you can see if any beetles end up in the CD case.  In mine nothing was caught.

We used a big RubberMaid tub to soak the nasty parts in overnite, and then used a power washer to heavily spray the bleach solution completely off all hive parts.  Bees are sensitive to smells.  And then air dried in the sun for a week before storing the parts for winter.  Then the next year I got new bees.  So my parts had time to air out and get rid of any bleach or smell.


  • I would make sure you have oil traps on the bottom (I recommend the Freeman Beetle Trap) they catch LOTS of beetles and mites.

  • I would make sure you don’t have some additional problem like mites, or disease on top of having beetles.  It’s possible to have multiple problems at the same time.

  • And bees can go out and get poisoned, come back to the hive and die from it.  We can’t do much about that.

  • Sometimes, when a hive is weak, the other hives will rob it out.  But not likely if the honey is crapped out and nasty.

You can get an idea of mite populations if you take a piece of sticky shelf paper and put it sticky side up under your ventilated screened hive bottom (you got one?) to catch dead mites.  Then you count the mites that stick to it.  Don’t put it where the bees can get to it, or they’ll stick to it too (grin)  OR you could just reley on your oil trap to catch the dropped mites.

I ordered my nematodes from here: 
Note:  They are tiny in a zip lock and a wet gel to keep them alive and a cold pack.  And they are sensitive to overheating, drying, AND poison.  (Another reason not to sprinkle poison around the hives)  You have to keep the ground moist or they will dry out and die.  We put ours in non-chlorinated water (chlorine is bad for them), and sprayed them on the ground under and around the hive.

Southeastern Insectaries, Inc.
606 Ball Street, PO Box 1546, Perry, GA 31069
Office 478-988-8412   Fax 478-988-9413  Toll Free 1-8777-967-6777
Email addresses:


Baby chicken poopy feet

I was mistaken when I thought to save money on shavings by using newspaper for baby chick bedding.  And I promise it wasn’t a problem when I only had to change papers once a day.  But as baby chicks grow, so do the poopy spots, so I changed to pine shavings.  But not before I had to remove the cemented on poop galoshes that walking in poop created on the bottoms of the baby chicks feet!

baby chicks

Chicklets snuggling in my coat and learning to be tame.

I should have taken a picture of what it looked like (poop snow-shoes, galoshes, chicks-turned-ducks with poop webs).  It had dried rock hard under that heat lamp and you couldn’t have gotten it off without taking skin along with it.  So I put them, all six, in a cardboard box to the downstairs bathroom and proceeded to soak it loose.

I first thought to soak it off with soapy water, but that didn’t go too good.  It was too dried, thick, and hard, so I ran enough really warm water in the bottom of the bathtub and let them walk around in it for 15 minutes or so.  I’d check each chick and pull off whatever came off easily and put them back to stand in the water for another few minutes.

I had to do all of this on my knees, and they were sore by the time I got finished with all of it. But when I was finished I had baby chicks with clean feet and wet belly feathers.  I put wads of toilet paper into the bottom of the box, layered that with wet chicks, and topped it off with more wads of toilet paper and closed the box.  They were grateful as heck too.

I took them back upstairs to dry under their very own heat lamp and 15 minutes later they were good as new.  Just thought someone might be interested in what it takes to do it.



Baby Chicklets are so darn cute!

Eggs, eggs, eggs, on my mind . . . (I must have eggs on my mind)

I had chickens, ducks, geese, guinea fowl many years ago. I went through the whole learning process with fowl homesteading. I lost a few, got too many, learned how to fix them when sick. I learned what to do with predators, owls, rats, stray (and not so stray) dogs, possums, etc. I learned the hazards of buying them at swap meets and how to treat the leg mite you get that way. How to treat chicken colds. And how to mercifully put them to rest when they needed to be. I knew what breeds I liked, and which might be problematic. (no nervous Polish chickens or Leghorns for me)

After years of doing many other things I kept looking at chicks in the feed store. They had a chick corral with 5-6 stock tubs full of all kinds, even Banty chicks. Three years passed, each year I looked at chicks.

picture of a baby chick head

Baby Chicklet

Although I knew my husband did not relish cleaning a chicken house, I kept asking if it was okay if I made sure I did all the chicken chores. No chicken was going to come between me and my husband. But this year, with grocery costs, and the fact that I knew chickens would eat all the leftovers that the dog wouldn’t eat, like salad trimmings and make eggs out of them, I asked again (while at the feed store).

He said yes this year, and I bought six pullet chicks (female chicks). They happened to be a breed that is easily sexed at birth by color, the Red Comet. When grown they look kind of like a Rhode Island Red chicken, but instead are red or gold and white feathered. The breed I really like are a dual purpose breed called Buff Orpingtons, but they weren’t available at the feed store.

chick brooder

Home made chick brooder from plastic tub

He helped me find a container to keep them in, a Rubbermaid tub. I put it in a room with a closed door to keep the cats out.
I clamped the red heat lamp to it, installed a thermometer close to where it was hottest, put newspapers in the bottom,
filled the feeder, and the waterer, and put the Chicklets in it.

Here they are snuggling in my coat . . .

baby chicks

Chicklets snuggling in my coat and learning to be tame.

It’s been a week, and they are so far doing fine. However I did find that half of them were much younger. You can see by how long the wing feather are on the younger half.  Here are pictures of the difference.

Baby chick wing feathers

The younger baby chick wing feathers, still pin feathers.

baby chick wing feathers

Baby chick older wing feathers same day

The difference in the way they act is that the younger ones sleep more, and want to snuggle more under your hand.  The younger ones are also not as strong.

It’s going to be several months before I have eggs. They do have to grow up and be old enough to lay them, which gives us time to make the chicken house and pen. While looking online for more chicken information, I happened upon my old chick supplier Murray MacMurray Hatchery, (or McMurray) and found out they have a new thing. They now sell older birds, and you can buy almost laying age pullets singly for WOW, $17.95 or so. They are expensive, but you don’t have to wait months for eggs. I may get some few more chickens from them that way.

You can also get fertilized eggs from them, and put them in your own incubator. But I didn’t live in an area that I could have a rooster, and didn’t have an incubator.

Small Hive Beetle Sweeper

Last year when we had our huge beetle infestation my husband, overwhelmed at the mess, said he was “tired of squishing beetles” and invented me a BEETLE SWEEPER!  This year with my new bees, I have been using it every few weeks in my beehives, clear up to when the bees are left alone in the fall for the winter.  It works really good.

Photo of Sweeper used to suck up small hive beetles

Brand and power of sweeper

He took a small, low powered sweeper, and cut the end off of a transmission fluid funnel like this one:

Photo of transmission fluid funnel

Transmission fluid funnel used to make nozzle

He then inserted it into the tip of the hose and secured it with electrical tape wound really tightly.

Photo of nozzle on small hive beetle sweeper

Nozzle with cut off end taped inside of it

And this is the result:

Photo of Finished small hive beetle sweeper

Finished small hive beetle sweeper

I just lift the top lid of the bee hive and lay it down quickly so that the beetles that might be in the lid do not scatter or fly off.  And you have to be VERY careful to avoid the bees because it will suck them up too.  And you can’t release the bees without releasing the beetles, so they are gone.  But you’ll get the hang of it after sucking up a few bees.  You will learn to gauge just how close you can come without commiting a bad thing.

Photo of beekeeper using a small hive beetle sweeper

Me using the hive beetle sweeper on my own hives

I have found that if I do this on a regular basis, after a while lifting the lid and examining shows only a few beetles. I think it’s having a good effect on the population.  Keep in mind, I also have bottom oil traps too.



Honey bees can gather the nectar in more than 300 flower types in the United States.

A honey bee must tap 2 million flowers to make 1 pound of honey.

The average worker honey bee makes 1 1/2 teaspoon of honey in her lifetime.

A honey bee visits between 50-100 flowers during one collection trip.

To make one pound of honey, honey bees must gather 10 pounds of nectar.

Honey has a tendency to granulate due to its natural properties. Granulation does not affect the taste or purity of honey.

Granulated honey can be restored to liquid form by carefully placing the jar in a pan of very warm water. (not too hot, cause that can ruin the taste and the vitamins and enzymes)

Store your honey in a dry cupboard. Do not refrigerate honey. Cold temperatures hasten granulation.

Honey does not benefit from pasteurization because it is naturally low in bacteria and other microbes.

Honey contains no fat, no cholesterol, no gluten and no sulfates or sulfites.

Honey is primarily composed of carbohydrates.

Honey is a natural sugar and is easier to digest. Honey is 100% pure and natural. It is made entirely by honeybees from flower nectars.

For all inquiries regarding the use of honey in medical conditions such as diabetes, weight control, etc., please consult your physician.

Honey was found in the tomb of King Tut (fl. c.1350 , king of ancient Egypt, of the XVIII dynasty) and was still edible since honey never spoils.

Due to the high level of fructose, honey is 25% sweeter than table sugar.

Honey is created by honey bees who mix plant nectar, with their own bee enzymes and then evaporate excess water.

Honey has different flavors and colors, depending on the location and kinds of flowers the bees visit.

To the ancients, honey was a source of health, a sign of purity and a symbol of strength and virility.

Nectar can contain 80 percent water, which the bees fan with their wings to evaporate most of.

Honey is antiseptic, antibiotic, and acidic

Natural honey will form into granular sugars

Honey can be used as a preservative

Honey can be used as a sugar substitute

Honey can be used as a facial beauty mask

Honey is used by some people for allergies.  But supposedly only honey from your local sources

NOTE – I understand from hearing from other sources that honey should not be fed to children under the age of 12 months.  I’ll research this further.



They were imported by Europeans in the early 1600’s to America.  But they are native to many other parts of the world, including the Middle East.  For over 150 million years they have been making honey all over the world.

They eat honey, pollen, nectar, and royal jelly.  Wasps, hornets, and yellow jackets are carnivorous, and eat other insects.  They also are a lot more touchy and stingy.

BEE VENOM is acidic.  Wasp, hornets and the like have alkaline venom.  It still hurts no matter . . .

They protect their food, queen, babies, and home from predators.  Foraging and swarming bees aren’t apt to sting unless you bother or step on them.  If you make them angry they will normally only chase you about 50 feet. Bees on or in a hive will guard and protect the hive and their family, and they post guard bees for this purpose.  The hive contains their young and the queen, and also all the food they have stored over the summer to feed them in winter.  Without any of those they would not survive.  I think I’d protect that!

When they sting and die they give off a smell that alerts other bees that an enemy is around.  They are much more likely to attack and sting if they smell this.  Don’t squish bees, they take it personally.

HONEY BEES LIVE FOR 60 DAYS  Except queens, who live much longer I remember someone saying about three times as long as the workers.  Although I have heard the queen can live for up to three years, I cannot confirm that as of today.  Let me know if you know the answer to that.

HONEY BEES HAVE ONE QUEEN (unless another is born)
There can be only one.  If any more are born they have a big fight to the death or one leaves. She can lay over 1500 eggs a day.  Worker bees create new queens by feeding the larvae Royal Jelly, which they produce from special bee glands.

Male bees don’t do much work at all, except to date the queen for a short while. In fact they get tossed out of the hive before winter so they won’t eat all the food.  But spring more hatch out.

Yep, that’s right.  You can pick them up with your bare hands and they won’t sting you.  If you can dodge the guard bees while you’re doing it.  They are called DRONES.

HONEY BEES HAVE TWO STOMACHS     (One of them is for nectar and honey)

They can see ultraviolet light, and red is seen as dark brown or black.  The eyes also have tiny hairs that can detect wind speed and direction.  Some of those eyes are in the top of their heads.

Their wings beat over 11,000 times a minute. And they can fly 15 miles an hour.  But if you are being chased you will swear it’s 90 miles an hour.

Their legs are used to walk, grasp, clean their antenna (or doorstep, or other bees), carry pollen or propolis (resins from plants they use to close crack in their hives)

A Honey Bees antenna have sensors that detect odors.  In 2003 some bees were trained by researchers to associate the smell of explosives with food, therefore being able to detect bombs.

This is also why they are so easily poisoned by pesticides.  And why dusty stuff irritates them.  I even feel sheepish using my smoker on them, and do it sparingly.  Sometimes I don’t have to use one.  Sometimes it’s not advisable to use one.  But whenever I omit to bring it to the hives, I always end up going back to get it.  Such as when I accidentally squish a bee or two.  They hate that.  Well, it is murder, even if accidental.

They exude (push it out) of their abdomens (belly) in flakes.  Then they take the flakes and form them into hexagon shaped cells with their little jaws and legs.  It takes approximately 450,000 of those flakes to make one pound of wax.  I’ve never actually seen them make wax, but I’ve seen pictures.

They huddle together around the queen to keep her warm eating honey for energy.  They need about 70 pounds of honey to survive the winter, and if they run out of honey, they freeze and die.  This is why sometimes beekeepers feed them in the winter if they don’t have enough honey.

They make help make food for us when they gather pollen and nectar and go from flower to flower.  This places pollen from one plant to another, and fertilizes the plants.  Plants can then make fruit and seeds.


White cat in a basket

Yowie is resting from his exhausting yoga career. He is sure he cannot be found by his many fans.



Yoga cat likes his underwear


cat on back, yoga cat

Cat surfing can be hard if you are less than yoga FIT

Yowie yoga cat career continues . . .  He is now deeply getting into . . . SURFING!  (He always did like the Beach Boys)

Yoga Cat asks for his bath


Yoga Cat is Stolen and possibly Hotlinked

Yowie hangs out here in the bathtub. If he can’t get me to give him a bath,then he diddles in the water while I take one myself.

UPDATE:  Yoga Cat Yowie has found his picture stolen and posted on another website that did not ask him if it was okay to do without any link back to him and his stories.  Therefore Yoga Cat Yowie found it necessary to have his photographer make sure his photos were labeled with the copyright notice that tells people it actually is.  Those would be the people that don’t read the notice on the actual page.

In addition, Yoga Cat Yowie believes this picture to be hotlinked to.  Which is considered to be tacky and not permissible unless permission is obtained.  AND in addition to all that Yoga Cat Yowie only found this out by sheer accident searching on the wide wide web.  He is sad and totally can’t believe people are that greedy.  Personally, his photographer isn’t too surprised.



I’ll  post more on this subject, but right now that’s just the bare minimum.  Just to let you know, the website that did this was one I came upon quite accidentally, and I have sent them a take down notice.  They make a huge deal about all their photos being “public domain”, and I know mine are NOT public domain.  I own the copyright to each and every one of them.

This website is one of those duplicates that have no real subject matter, are full of pictures of furniture, and decorating, and everyone else’s photos so that they can generate loads of traffic on the backs of other peoples work.  If this keeps on I’ll probably out them on my blog, but right now I’m just waiting for them to fess up and take my picture of Yowie off their web page of “CATS IN BATHTUBS”  And they have several other websites and each one has the same page as this one.

Right now, I’ll see if they’re hotlinked since I changed the picture, it should show up on their website as the new one.





Small Hive Beetle Distribution


Endemic to sub-Saharan Africa, the small hive beetle, Aethina tumida was first discovered in the United States in 1996 and has now spread to many U.S. states including, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Illinois, Minnesota, Missouri, New York, Virginia and Hawaii. The small hive beetle has become established in the state of Texas as well. The movement of migratory beekeepers from Florida may have transported the beetle to other states. Recent findings also indicate transport of the beetles in packages.

Internationally, the Small Hive Beetle has spread to Australia being first identified at Richmond, NSW in 2002. Subsequently it has affected many areas of Queensland and New South Wales.[1] It is speculated that a combination of importing queens from other countries and beekeepers moving their hives has caused the spread.

In Canada, the Small hive beetle has been detected in Manitoba (2002 and 2006), Alberta (2006), Québec (2008, 2009), and Ontario (2010). In the Prairie Provinces, measures were taken to control the pest and Small hive beetle failed to establish a population. It is still to be determined whether Small hive beetle has been able to establish a resident population in Ontario or Québec.[2]


FROM UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA . . .    That link has more information and also a MAP of the distribution.





I’ll add more later as I get the time.  Hub is taking a nap, so I can this moment (grin) If he wakes up he’ll need coffee!

Yoga cat still Yoga-ing

Yowie is so laid back.  Here his recent Yoga poses


Yowie is so laid back

He is so laid back that you can decorate him like a Christmas tree


Yowie wears bananas sometimes

Go figure, he’s adopted, maybe that has something to do with it.

Freeman hive beetle trap and nematodes arrived!

Bees from Georgia Bees

Italian bees from Georgia Bees

Got my beetle trap.  Unadvised and as I did the frames, I used a glue gun to track down any cracks in the construction to prevent the beetles from hiding from the bees.  I only found the normal amount, just along the sides and bottom.  Did not do this on the grooves for the sliding tray by the way, so that the tray will slide in and out as designed.  It is hot, hot, hot, here in West Tennessee.  My nematodes also arrived, and I am watering the ground beneath my hive patio before I put them on the ground.  Hope they lived through the shipping in this hot weather.  I looked at them under high magnification and can just make out masses of them in the gel packs.  But I can’t tell if they are moving . . . They are very tiny and hairlike.

Leave a comment at the bottom of the page.  I like that the mostest.

Small Hive Beetle help

This information needs to get out there to the bee community as soon as possible.  I am posting this in the midst of doing my own control measures right now.

I am a hobbyist beekeeper, have been keeping hives since about 2008.  I started with one hive and in four years they multiplied to six.  I did have hive beetles here and there, but did the hive bottom and top traps which kept them (I thought) in control.

This year I had to go on vacation and before leaving I did the normal honey thing and put an extra empty super just below the uncapped filled one because I didn’t have time to do anything else before leaving town.  I did this on all the hives, even the ones that were splits from the spring.  I was worried about swarming and them running out of room to store honey.  I assumed the uncapped would be capped when I got back in a week, and I could just take it off the hives.

Soo . . . I got back, checked the hives, and several of them had very little bees coming and going.  One hive swarmed (JULY), and this alarmed me also.  Several days later one of the strongest hives had HERDS of bees on the front hanging off of it.  I thought maybe they might just be that way because in the heat, (we’ve had a drought and over 100 degree temps), they were just hot.

My husband said they were also going to swarm, so I got into my suit early in the morning and started opening hives.  I found that every hive was overcome and slimed with beetles, larvae, and I only had one queened hive left out of five.

One hive had ten forlorned bees in it, some beetles, ants, cockroaches, and the beginning of moths.

The second had 50 or so bees in it, and lots of beetles.

The third was FULL of larvae, beetles, and a handfull of bees.

The fourth had no bees and was full of larvae and beetles

And the fifth and remaining hive had bees on the front, beetles and larvae inside, and was slimed  just like the rest.  However, it had a queen and the bees were pretty strong.

I started with the most infested, and when I pulled out the beetle oil trap that was underneath, I swear there was a layer of beetle larvae two inches thick, which I poured into hot soapy water to kill them. I also knocked any stray beetles into this and put the lid on each time in between checking to see if anyone crawling out needed to be smashed.  It was midmorning, and the temps were in the 100 plus degrees.  Hot, hot, hot, work.

I also used a modified vacuum cleaner  which my husband made up to suck up all the beetles that tried to get away. This works VERY well by the way.  The nozzle was made about 1/2 inch in diameter with an adaptor.  Shoo the bees away with your hand before aiming, not the nozzle (grin)  The vacuum works GOOD.

I then got a fresh hive body, fresh frames, and one fresh super with fresh frames in it, set it next to that hive of the hive that had a queen left and lots of bees. I brushed as many bees into this hive, trying not to brush beetles into it (an almost losing battle), and with a large and small empty totes ready with hot soapy water in them.  I scraped the ruined comb and as much of the larvae and beetles into the smaller one, and then put the frames into the larger one and covered it with lids as I worked.

I cleaned out beneath the infested hive and then put it also into the tote when I got all the bees moved into the new one.  The I moved the whole mess away from the area and placed the new clean hive with bees back in the original place.

I cleaned the old hive bottom beetle trap, replaced it with fresh oil.  That night I researched like a mad person about what causes what again.  I found a bunch of new information on the life cycle of these nasty beetles, and it gave me a start on how to go about what I needed to do to start over again.

GO TO THIS LINK PLEASE.  I am telling you Mr. Freeman and his beetle trap website  has one answer that make a bunch of sense, and that IS.  Bees can herd beetles and contain them to a point they can’t get on the honey and lay eggs so much.  His trap has no ledges for beetles to hide on or in, and this helps the bees to get at them, knocking them into the oil of the trap.  I have a beetle trap, but it has ledges on it.  I ordered one today for my remaining hive.  He called me back and spoke with me extensively, and was really great in answering all my questions about his trap and any other beetle information.

He also says dusting with powdered sugar enrages the bees so that they chase beetles into the oil.  Good point, and I did that also.  And yes, they did get mad at me for it.  (Dummies)

As we power washed the dirty frames and equipment, and attempted to kill the larvae and beetles, we discovered several things.

Bee hive frames getting ready for powerwash because of beetle contamination

Bee hive frames getting ready for powerwash because of beetle contamination

Some say use water and drown them.  I use HOT SOAPY WATER and drown them (it shocks them).  Some say use 50/50 bleach solution.  Yep, it works, but not totally in that concentration.  Some larvae still survived for some reason, so I used full strength on em.   I earlier tried several spray cleaners, and chemicals from my kitchen and bathroom cabinet and they just annoyed them.  The larvae I swear can SNORKLE!


As we cleaned the frames, we found larvae down inside the grooves of where the plastic foundation seated, both bottom and top.  Some were not big mature larvae either, and would be easy to miss on first glance.  There were bunches of them all along those grooves, and you might think you had a frame cleaned and then see them crawl out 2 minutes later.  They use these cracks to breed and hide from the bees when they are chased.

Hive beetle garage 2

Hive beetle garage

BOTH OPENING CRACKS WHERE THE FOUNDATION MEETS EITHER SIDE.  The bees had frantically tried to propolis (seal) all such cracks, and it was heavy here.

NAIL HOLES, AND PARTS WHERE JOINTS MEET  These are tiny, but each one has a place that a few beetles hide, and so do the larvae.

Bee hive frame dirty corner where hive beetles hide

Yet another dirty corner where they reproduce

MY RECOMMENDATION (which may not be expedient for commercial beekeepers at all)  Just examine ALL cracks there, in your hive body, and especially in the lid.  I have eliminated ALL inner covers, because they are just places for the beetles to hide from the bees.  But I am not an expert on this and it is only my personal decision born of paranoia.

I went to Walmart and got a large hot glue gun, long hot glue sticks (ten packages). We cleaned most of the nasties, propolis, extra wax, and bugs off the frames. Put a large piece of cardboard on the kitchen table and a spotlight. Then proceeded to hot glue every darned crack in the equipment and frames.

Tools set up to close cracks against hive beetles

Set up to close cracks against hive beetles

This takes a lot of time, but when you are through, you are eliminating places for any varmint to hide.  We filled all around the plastic frame foundation, both ends, top and bottom, nail holes, etc . . .  In the case of those plastic frames, filled all the casting holes on each end.

Hot glued hive frame corner

Bee hive frame corner after closing cracks with hot glue

They don’t have cracks around the foundation part of the frame, but when I took them out of a beetle infested hive, each casting hole held not just several, but at least 15 beetles were hiding from the light.  I killed them with a five in one tool, sharp end wallowing it back and forth until they were crushed. But those are the holes that take the most hot glue to fill and sometimes you got to go over it several times to find all of the missed spots.

My husband and I are still in the process of doing this, and if I had know this before I put the hive back together, I’d have not put the frames in unglued and fixed.  Too late, they are building new comb on them right now and I am reluctant to disturb them, lest the queen get killed in the process.

He is now taking the foundation OUT of the frames  to clean them, then I scrape them and rinse.  The crack where it rests, top and bottom harbor larvae and beetles to the max. My husband is a gem of a man, and is doing the hardest work to clean up this mess.

I’m telling you, I’m so mad at these bugs.  They eat baby bees and eggs, and you end up with no queen in the hive. Which is why I now have only one queened hive out of five.  I have extreme sympathy for the commercial beekeepers that did not see this coming. I thing someone needs to manufacture or invent some new equipment that has less crevices and cracks during this invasion. I am resolved that I will not give up beekeeping.

Bee hive with feeding pans

Last bee hive standing after 5 hives overcome by hive beetles

My last bee hive has no drawn foundation, but it has a queen, plenty of healthy bees, and all they have to do is fight off the beetles and store enough honey for winter.  Poor things.

I have also ordered 10,000 predatory nematodes, which are hive beetle larvae predators that negate needing poison, to apply
beneath the ground around my hive area.  I have been told they kill the larvae in a horrible way, which suits me to peeces.

Bee hive frames on table

Bee hive frames clean of hive beetle contamination

I am pressed for time and right now can’t post all the links, but search on small hive beetle, traps, solutions, information, etc. But I will tonite try to post this in as many places as possible.  There are SO many bee websites, blogs, and places online.

Bee hive boxes on flatbed

Bee hive brood boxes and supers that had been used before hive beetle contamination

We are inventing things and brainstorming existing traps and additional ideas as I speak, so take heart.  I think it’s the backyard beekeepers that have more time to do so.  We aren’t all scientists, but combining all the information everyone has helps to get solutions.   Good luck to all of you beekeepers out there and I’ll keep in touch if I or my hub invent something more that helps with the beetles.

UPDATE:  I have ordered my Freeman Beetle Trap, done dusted the bees with powdered sugar, been feeding them, and they seem to be in pretty decent shape.  Also ordered some nematodes, and am considering putting some of those CD case traps baited with roach bait under and around the ground way under the hive area.  The CD cases have openings that are way too small for a bee to enter, and I’ve heard they work good too.  (no poison IN the hive in other words)

UPDATE 2014:  See my other posts on what I did later on.


Cat Bath Curtain Tackle Attack number ONE & TWO

He will knock off all your shampoo, scare you out of your wits, and hang around for more action!

And then there is the second round . . .

If you got a cat that does that kind of stuff, let me know.

You can leave a comment at the bottom of the page.  

Natural Home Made Cat Food


What did pets EAT before there was dry pet food?  I started reading about carnivorous cats several years ago.  It seems that cats are actually what is called “OBLIGATE CARNIVORES”.  Simply put, cats are animals that are designed by nature to eat prey meat only.  (Obligate, as in obligated to)

A Cats digestive system can process meat and animal carcasses, and it keeps them healthy because they are born able to digest it.  They do not digest vegetables, grain, and all those things that you might see them eat occasionally, such as grass.  But that’s another entire subject.

Picture of Grey Cat looking out back door

Dreaming of REAL prey . . .

Also, being a small feline, they are not designed to eat large prey, or large prey bones.  (in other words I would never give a cat a large chicken bone)  In their natural state out in the yard, they eat bugs, birds, small rodents, all with small flexible bones.  They normally consume the whole animal which gives them the internal organs, brain, bones, heart, etc.  So therefore they can’t live on just a chicken leg.  They have to have the bones, and the rest or they’ll be deficient in those nutrients and starve or be messed up.  You can’t give them just chopped meat if you want to feed them a meat diet.

So, your little house cat is no different than a lion, tiger, or any other wild cat in all these respects.

Now I know, you’re thinking that people have fed dried and canned cat food for all your life, and they seem to be completely healthy.  But think about that.  They get urinary problems, and dirty teeth and abscesses.  They get things like cancer, and other stuff, and when they get old they REALLY have problems.

Well, anyway, I thought so,until I remember all the cats that I had to get teeth cleaned, and my old cats that suffered, couldn’t eat, crap like that.  Regardless of whether all that is true or not, and me not being an expert cat dietitian, I was prompted by yet another set of event to investigate a home made cat food information.

They kept coming out with pet food recalls, and one day my cat Dicky just got sick and wouldn’t eat.  He hid upstairs, laid there for a week, and eventually got over it, but I found his cat food had a recall on it too late.  Something about MELAMINE powder in the food ingredients made in CHINA for gosh sake!  Well, now the Chinese are poisoning my cat from across the ocean, and me all dependent on manufactured cat food.  (I thought)

I noticed that aside from that.  My cats would eat, (but not chew up) dry cat food. They always crunched once and swallowed it half whole.   I looked on the label.  It had a lot of grain in it.  I found out that the reason dry cat food has grain in it (corn and such), is that to make a dried little pebble which will store in a bag and not break up, you have to use something like flour or corn meal to be able to bake it into a kibble consistency, otherwise it will be sticky and not dried.

In other words, it has nothing to do with it being a good diet item for cats or dogs.  It’s a filler that makes a dry thing not sticky that they can store and sell.  Remember?  Cats don’t digest grain and cornmeal.  They just pass it through in the form of extra poop.

Have you ever chewed a piece of cat or dog food?  Well, it’s not what I’d call poison, so I tried it.  And found that contrary to what they tell you, which is that is CLEANS THEIR TEETH.  When you chew up cat or dog food, the dried kind, it sticks to your teeth, the grains of corn get all up in the base of each tooth, and GOOD LUCK getting it out without an ice pick!

Try it sometime.  It not only doesn’t clean your teeth or theirs, it gums them up until you’ll never get it off without industrial strength cleaner.  And not only that, but it is slimy, more so than normal human food of any kind.  I wouldn’t want my food like that.  It’s worse than some crackers.  I had never eaten anything that clung to my teeth quite like it.  (don’t get sick)

Now, right in the middle of all this research, I run across an article that says that carnivores are made to digest what are called “long chain amino acids” which is what raw meat contains.  (?)  And when you cook meat, (which is what we eat), it changes the amino acid formation to “short chain amino acids”, making the meat hard for a carnivore to digest.

Hey, go figure.  The cat food companies don’t ever focus on the fact that no feline animal, large or small, in the outdoors, eats any kind of cooked food whatsoever.  In fact the small ones will hunt down and eat exactly the same form of prey that a lion will.  And be perfectly healthy on a exclusive diet of it and nothing else but water. Most of which they get from their prey anyway.


Wild Carnivores don’t eat dried food for the most part.  Prey is moist, and contains water.  They drink additional water too.  Now if your little house cat eats his dry food and doesn’t drink enough water, where do you suppose the water comes from to reconstitute his dried kibbles?  From his very own stomach and intestines, that’s where.

Now it just so happens that my cats don’t care for dried cat food with water on it pre-re-constituted.  They hate the taste.  So, if they don’t drink enought water to make up for it, then it gets sucked from their stomach and intestines.  How healthy is that?  Granted, they are used to eating dried food, and it smells fine to them when dry, but moistened and they turn up their noses at it.

How many kids have you seen that think fast food is great stuff?  If you grew up eating real vegetables and farm raised chickens, you would know the difference in taste.  But they didn’t, and so that’s what tastes right and delicious to them.  Cats are no different.  No choice, they’re hungry, that’s food, that’s it.

“Only the freshest, healthiest ingredients”, is the pet food companies refrain.  So, if they are using fresh ingredients, and then cooking the life out of it, then drying it, and then mixing it with a bunch of stuff that.  Heck they tell you not to overcook your own food.  They TELL you it’s not healthy to eat overly processed food.  What if you had to live on beef jerky and pemmican (Indian dried jerky with some fruit) all the time, how healthy do you think you would be?

The fact is that no matter how fresh a food is, when you process it, heat it, dry it, and mush it up with something a person or animal was never meant to assimilate or digest, then it just isn’t the best healthy food for your body.  You know yourself a piece of raw asparagus doesn’t even resemble a fresh steamed one, or pepper, or broccoli, or beans, or whatever.  Dried beef and chicken?  Who would even want that given the choice to have a fresh roasted one or a steak?

And there your cat is eating dried jerky food.  Hey, I’m no one to talk.  I fed my cats dry their whole lives, and not just one generation, but 5 cats in a row.  They all got inflamed gums and teeth that needed to be cleaned.  Every one of them.


Because of that, I decided to experiment.  Now I know that most people know the danger of salmonella, and germs that contaminated, uncooked meat has.  But I’ve gone my whole life not getting sick from meat, and the only time I got food poisoning was from restaurants.  Simple as that.  I don’t buy old meat.  I don’t cook slimy smelly anything.  I learned to buy good meat, and don’t worry about it.  So, I don’t worry too much about the cats because I decided I’d get the same fresh chicken I would buy for myself for this experiment.

Now, I also knew that meat alone does not a cat diet make.  Cats require calcium, taurine (from hearts), and iron (liver), and I located in addition, a company (one of many), that manufacture a powder that you mix with meat, water, salmon oil capsules, and egg yolk to make a complete meat diet that you can feed EXCLUSIVELY to cats and nothing else  needed for them to be healthy.

This company tested a large group of cats on an all meat diet for years, and found many things.  The main thing was that they were all, with few exceptions, exceptionally healthy and remained so for all their lives.  They also said that it cured many behavioural problems and attitudes in all of them.  Happy, healthy, lively, and all that.

So, half convinced, and wondering if this might help my aggressive cat, I ordered some powder, got some salmon oil caps, eggs, boned chicken thighs, and a thing of chicken livers.  I chopped (not too small, about one inch size bits)  two pounds of chicken thighs, 1/4 that amount of livers, added the salmon oil, and egg yolk.  I couldn’t find any heart, but that was in the powder.  I added the recommended amount of powder and cold water to mix.

Then I put about 1/4 cup in a bowl and set it on the floor next to the cat.  He did something that I’ve never seen him do before.  He took one claw, and used it to hook one piece of meat, and then spent the next few long minutes RELISHING his food.

When normally given dried food he ate like a chow hound and was through eating in 3 minutes.  And asked for more of it because he didn’t think he was full.  And wouldn’t settle down afterward.  Feeding time was asked for no less than two hours after feeding him with dried meat.

He chewed his raw meat completely before swallowing it, and when he was finished, he went to his cat tower, crawled up on top, and napped out for 4 hours!  He didn’t ask for more food, he didn’t pace around the house.   He was satisfied and napped out.  Simple as that.


Laid up after a good raw meat meal.


I decided to carry this to extremes.  I wanted to know if they were right about being able to feed a raw diet and NO other store bought food to a cat.  So I fed my cat this two times a day (normally with dried it was three) for over a month.  At the end of that time he was calmer, and yet more energetic when he was awake.  He no longer gobbled his food, but took his time like you would with a good steak.  He didn’t have to drink as much water, and his stools were looser, but less smelly.  His cat pan didn’t stink every time he took a dump.

What a revelation.  However, being short on time, I eventually backslid into giving him some dry cat food on the side for when I was out of raw.  Right now I’m feeding raw once a day at night to both my cats.  But you have to have the powder to be sure it’s complete and not deficient.  And that can be expensive.  My vet was diplomatically horrified when he learned about it.  But I would dare anyone to take a blood test and tell me my cat is unhealthy.  My eyes just don’t decieve me.

Hey, my cats react completely different when offered either kind of food.  Dried is just begged for.  MEAT is a scramble of cat yells and “give it to me NOW!”  My first cat did not grow up on raw meat, he ate it first when he was all grown up, and he still prefers it to dried every time.

So doing it myself and seeing the results in my own cats convinced me totally.  It is more trouble, but not if you make a batch and freeze it in parcels one months worth at a time.  And for me it cost more because I hate boning chicken and am not good at it.   (I might cut myself too)

You’ll find pros and cons and people for and against it, but for me it’s worth whatever risk they say comes along with it.  I got some powerfully healthy cats now.


I’ve got some powerfully healthy cats.

Disclaimer:    I am not an expert cat dietitian.  The information in my post is only from my own experience in feeding this diet to my own animals.  I urge you to do the same as I did if you are considering this diet for your own animals.  Research, get on the net and explore and read many articles before trying it yourself.

Email me with any questions and I can send you links to sources for the powder which I mix with my cats food.






Cat Yoga For The Rest Of Us, or Yowie Cat Yoga

Cat Yoga is latest thing in cat exercise. And my cat is a Yoga cat-fool.  Yowie Cat Yoga is the way to go.

Here’s some photos of him in action on an average day.  Keep in mind,our routine to watch tv was that you had to kick the cat out of the chair each night before you could sit down to see the news. He was a SQUATTER of CHAIRS and a USURPER of THRONES.  But you gotta luv him, he’s kinda cute.


Shall We Begin?

He even gloated when we passed.
He reveled in the smell of our ____________
He coated the chair with a sheen of white hair
in revenge for us moving him out of his lair.
He would scrunch, stretch, twist, and contort
Until I decided he had invented a sport.


Warm up gradually . . .


Reverse Extension of the spine . . .


Arms over your head, look cute, curve right . . .


Roll to right side, deep breath, and relax . . .


Back to left stretch paw, curl leg and tail . .


Look for Audience appreciation . . .


Stretch Paws To The Sky . . .


Stretch upper body and paws . . .


Retire to beach towel and wait for fan mail . .




















My job was to trim shrubs behind a commercial building that day.  I arrived at daybreak, the sun was barely up and the night lights were still lit.  I took my first pictures of the day to record what the foliage looked like before I began to trim.

I got all my tools, the wheelbarrow, the bags, and started up the walk.  Soon I saw there was somebody keeping me company . . .

little white kitten in the bushes

I soon saw there was somebody keeping me company

The streak of white color dissapeared behind one of the rose bushes up against the building and I realized that it was a kitten. I got down on my knees to peer under the bush he was hiding in and stretched out my hand and called him.

He was a wild baby kitty, but not totally.  (Somebody had been feeding him at lunchtime.)  I ran back to the car and got part of my sandwich (the meat part), and ran back to feed him.  He ate it all, even a french fry.


He watched with suspicious curiosity

I started walking around to see what needed to be done to the flower beds.  The kitten watched all this with suspicious curiosity. Getting food every few minutes had him soon following me around asking for more.



He soon started following me around

I wasn’t surprised.  He had no Mommy anywhere that I could see.  I found out later a mother cat had been seen carrying him across the parking lot and dropped him off there never to return.  He was an ORPHAN BABY KITTYKAT.


He was starving …

He was starving, and looked better than he was because he was a long haired kitten, and the fur disguised the ribbyness of his tiny little body.


I could tell he was a Purrson of importance

But his personality told me he was a purrson of importance, sooo. . .    He came home in a cardboard box when I left the job two days later.


My other cat was not so sure about this newcomer

My other cat was not so sure about this newcomer.  He hissed a lot, and spit a lot, and cussed a lot.  Then he just left the room disgusted.


I put him in a cage for his own safety

I put him in another room in a cage so that the big guy wouldn’t eat him.  A time out was needed before it was discovered that he was really a friend and not an intruder.


At first, curiosity at a distance

He was allowed out only under supervision and then recaged at night.  More and more freedom as he was accepted.  At first it was just curiosity from a safe distance.  But in the end, after a few weeks, they became more and more friends . . .


In the end they became friends

After a week of the big cat being pounced on, and the little cat getting smashed on, and a bunch of spats, there was a truce.  But in the end they got their act together and became companionable friends.



Welcome to Jewelant’s Blog!  It’s a blog about all my interests and anything other interesting.  Got cats, videos, honey bee information, garden pictures, cartoons, militaria, antiques, chickens, and funny stuff. This blog has evolved to encompass hobbies I’m presently messing with, and things I have to do with, and, and, and, whatever pops up in the future.



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